I missed the Christmas markets, so timed my January visit with my birthday. Staying with the Berlin Boys (who wish to remain anonymous) I had easy access to the Museum Insel and would walk there most days. Getting the three-day ticket from the kiosk saves you loads of money and takes the pressure off making the most of each visit. I returned to the Alte Nationalgalerie and Pergammon several times, spending only the time I needed, rather than exhaust myself looking at everything.
I found a sculpture that I first met in Nice last Autumn - The Bronze Age (by Rodin) - a fine figure of youth. I attempted to sketch him in pencil.
(Nice on the left, Berlin on the right) (images are my own photos)
Amongst the paintings I admired were Anselm Feuerbach's selfportait (1873) - his blue eyes, high forehead and wiry, dark hair (image is my own photo).
Carl Schuch's 'Stilleleben Mit Äpfeln' (1876) - its blocky application of paint and weightiness of the fruit (image courtesy of pinakothek)
'Sommer' (1873) by Hans Thoma, its startling cobalt sky (image courtesy of wikimedia).
The touching humility of the family welcoming Christ to their modest table in Fritz von Uhde's 'Das Tischgebet' (1885) (image is my own photo).
Finally, 'Orangenpflücker' (1873) by Hans von Marées. I remember photographing this in detail, years ago, to help me tackle a male nude I was preparing to paint. I was encouraged by the shameless thick lines, creating shadows and highlights, delineating muscularity. The brushstrokes don't attempt to reproduce the surface of the skin. Rather they form repeated arcs of paint that suggest form. The same strokes depict the tree to the model's left.
At the Pergammon, I took out my watercolours to make a short, simple study of a 'daisy' motif from the throne room, adjacent to Ishtar Gate.
As I approached the end of it, a guard - who presumably could stand no more of my cleaning my brush into a rag on the marble floor - told me to stop. I think what troubled me more was that, halfway through the piece a young woman asked me to take a photo of her, with the throne room wall behind her. After checking that I understood how to use her iPhone (ffs), she posed herself with one hand holding her shoulder-length up in an attempt to look vacantly alluring. I couldn't help but wonder what trials the inhabitants of Babylon had to endure in 575BC, compared to my friend who probably filled her FB account with vacuous self portraits. Can't imagine a thoughtful account of visiting the museum accompanying her glamour shot, can you?
I returned to the Pergammon another day, to study rug samples in the persian section upstairs. Borrowing coloured pencils (in an attempt not to piss off the guards) I sat for hours counting stitches and attempting to reproduce patterns in my sketchbook.
Jump to the Summer - and I took my watercolours to the Motzstrassenfest. It was a little foolish to attempt painting moving subjects, progressively drunk, as I was.
The following day, I started sketching, and finally painting the scene from the Berlin Boys' flat window. Conveniently framed between two tower blocks, I had the Spree leading up to the Dom, passing the Radisson Blu along the way. I made a preliminary sketch and left it alone.
I returned to it later, to add some detail.
I added watercolour.
Finally. I added pencil detail.
I'm quite proud of that.
On Monday, one of the Berlin Boys invited me to the Martin Gropius Bau, where an exhibition of Paul Klee and Johannes Itten art was open. An impressive show. I went in looking forward to seeing Klee and came out with my notebook predominantly referencing Itten.
My favourite pieces of Itten's work were Portrait (1915), 'Ribbons' (1918), 'Der Berg' (1929), 'Früling' (1945) and 'Feistlich' (1966), none of which can I locate an image, unfortunately...
Of the Klee I enjoyed were 'Tor in Garten' (1926) and 'Ohne Titel (Vollmond im Gebirge) (c.1939). Also neither of which can I find representations.
Anyhoo, that was Berlin this year.













